Wrote a letter to the CEO, asking why they would bother putting a green and yellow jacket on a product that performs more poorly than a Murray or similar tractor. Why would John Deere make these models in the first place? I have an an l130, that is well maintained, but gets a lot of use. The fourth option in dealing with my John Deere that won’t climb hills is to buy a transmission upgrade kit and I am NOT mechanically inclined! Has not gone uphill in a year. So hide your responsibility JD, but it will cost you future sales as the internet word travels. To correct the problem … push it back in. I realize that such an incline will wear down a tractor, but I have a John Deere and was under the impression that these riding mowers are the toughest in the business. Now, I also have apparently the same problem with the L120 transmission, runs about 15 minutes fine and then will not pull up even slight hills. What I got in return was stunning! I paid $2300.00 for this mower 6 years ago. Dave and Warren: Just got a estimate yesterday for $1,100 to fix! …and is it any better? If I don’t upgrade to the K66 , I’m hoping that with minimal use (I’m hoping I can push snow with the bucket on my subcompact tractor) it will take me a heck of a lot longer to get to 150 hours. The transaxle has worked perfectly, with plenty of torque and power. I then allowed the filter to set overnight to evaporate any residue of the gasoline. It went up and down the hill behind the house with no problem. He also said that my upgrade should have come with the tires on the rims and aired up (he was correct again),, SOOooo I apologized for taking up his time :). I was helped tremendously by Derrick Dalton at Tuff Torq, who answered every question I had–and I had a lot of them! Still the same. Going to have buddy paint it bring it back to new with new stickers. Indeed we are in!!!! up front, I wanted a good piece of equipment, not a toy. Very interesting. It can’t be dust entering from the outside, so I assume it’s just the break down of oil? Is Roger still selling the transmission replacement for the john deere? My upgrade was delivered in two shipments, FedEx Air and Ground. After about the first two hours of use, check the oil level in the K66 gear box (Thumb screw lid) and in the plastic reservoir. Ps: Yes, the kits work just fine in the L111. I’ve got to know, how long did it take you doing it solo? For the last several years I have been cutting my yard in patterns such that I’m going downhill on most cutting passes and going back up hill on the pathway with the least amount of slope. I have a jd l110 with a bad transaxle,nothing sold in this country is as poor quality as my lawn tractor. It’s now to the point that it will not even move w/ 60 hrs on the meter. Sorry to hear all the bad issue’s everyone seams to be having with their JD, I purchased (new) a L110 in 2001 , it now has over 1200 hrs, and is just now starting to have transmission issue’s. I told the Manager JD’s were over priced and over rated. I filled out the form above, but every time I try to submit, it keeps kicking back that I need to sign. Roger. Best Regards, Roger. I know it will get old again real soon, but for now I am like a kid with a brand new….much more powerful….toy! I will not buy another John Deere mower that is for sure. 1) Remove the left wheel. for lesser reasons. So I’m at the dealer to get my mower. It Seems that John Deere does not provide the pre-cut Axle Keys for some of their axles installed in JD, or Scotts tractors. Your tractor would be returned BETTER than new … MUCH better! The lower end 100 series models use a T40 which is also manufactured by Tuff Torque and from what I can tell has the same specs as the K46. If you are considering buying a new tractor to replace your malfunctioning JD, please keep this in mind: >In my opinion, virtually all the current tractors on the market in the “under $3000” price range are still using the TT K46 (or close variant) transaxle. Have a 145,bought in June 2006. Feel free to add my name to the petition if this is still in progress. This link will send you to the illustrated parts list on the john deere site. I do blame John Deere and Tuff Torq, as I had a small yard (less than half an acre) that was flat and noticed a performance degradation before I ever started mowing a lawn with hills. It was interesting dissecting as much as I could (or was capable of), but I still don’t know why it didn’t work and travel on upgrades? I have clean the carburetor out and replaced the fuel filter. Dealer thought it was the belt . JD has had the same “weakest link” in their movers since at least 1985 based on my evidence, they’ve known it exists, they’ve let it continue, and they think consumers are naive enough to keep buying good ole’ American made John Deere. What difference did it make? I was just snow blowing, and it crapped out. After mowing for about 20 minutes, it’s starts slowing down whenever I turn sharply. But the alternatives are even more expensive. 2) I have not installed the freewheeling rod yet (just have not made the time). (Look for “John Deere K66”) So far, both have bids at the initial listing price of $1295. I bought my L130 because it said heavy duty. Afterall we all bought John Deeres, the tractor that lasts forever, right? Shop a huge online selection at eBay.com. Tuff Torq offers all the parts along with an upgrade kit. I shouldn’t have pay again so soon. Maybe we need to get a member of our governments to collectively look into a mandatory recall of these transmissions before someone is injured such as in a roll over on a hill because of a maneuver to avoid rolling back such as in the case of the original writer. I purchased the manual that he put together and sourced all of my own parts. The transmission has been declining steadily since last summer but is now at the point where I have to get creative to mow even the flatter points of the yard in a way so I mow on the down hill taking even more time and to add insult to injury most of the yellow paint on the deck is gone. Seriously, when the tranny starts to go on a John Deere, the first thing almost everyone does is change the belt because the symptoms seem very much like a slipping belt. I found the rubber plug described above and removed it, and then came to my computer to see if I could determine what type of oil to add to the trans. They do not compete at all with any of the other machines. I also used a lot of paper towels to clean any remaining fluid and grit, being careful not to dislodge any parts. Was told it couldn’t be done. JD is really not interested. Regardless of there being a better older machine or an upgrade, the point still stands that John Deere concealed a problematic design on a unit that retailed for over $2300.00. Roger- you’re right- the LT180 is otherwise a good machine. It is slowly dying. yeah you will pay more but you get what you pay for!!!! I will never buy another John Deere. Is there a kit for a Sabre 1538 or will a K66 fit this tractor. This kind of math is easy for me and I will be ordering a new upgrade kit. Turn the Fulcrum Shaft clockwise until the Axle Shafts rotate in reverse. There are NO MORE new/surplus K66r transaxles available anywhere in the world. When I repaired (Myself) the first one the people at Tuff-Torq were very helpful with directions and sold me the parts for about $330 US. I did the work around fix of removing the complete transmission/trans-axle and draining fluid through breather cap and adding replacement fluid. If you have the time, go for it! Roger, During the off season .. What you will see is much more torque and pulling power. Talked my brother out of a new john deere from that dealer (he bought cub cadet). Was told by local JD dealer that the drive belt was bad on the tractor. I am curious to see what he has to see and offer. However that is still good service I think. The fan is vital for cooling. I went across the street and purchased a Z-Force Cub Cadet zero turn mower, WOW what a machine! Also be interested to know if someone bought a kit and wanted to sell for the price they paid for it (installed or uninstalled). N-E-V-E-R will I buy another John Deere OR Tuff Torque equipped machine. (which took longer to do than installing the K66) I did the install myself and it took about 5-6 hours in total. I purchased an LA 120 in October 2007 from Home Depot and the warranty ran out in October 2009. I could not pay $700.00 for a new transmission… Didn’t make sense. I have worn out a Murray and and a MTD on the same piece of property that I bought the DEERE to cut. I’ve changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and breather but nothing helps. I have a 2004 LT 160 lawn tractor with 214 hours on it. Add me to the list. I cannot get 10 minutes of mowing with it now. I would like to be added to his list. My Grandpa’s mids 60s is still up and running! ken. Well I mowed it all again today and everything worked great. So I threw a $100 bill on the counter and said, ” Heres your money I want out of here as fast as possible”. Wouldn’t discuss warranty issues. I was not happy with that and started my search. Does the 155 series have the same transmissions as the L120 and 130 you are talking about ? The estimated delivery date is for Tuesday Sept. 1th.. FedEx usually travels this route in the late afternoons so it will probably be Wednesday before we get started on installing it. It started smoking when we would engage the blades so my grandfather changed the deck belt and drive belt. Changed did not help. Thanks! With help from others, I recently overhauled the Koler and everything is OK there. Sorry, guess I wasn’t explicit enough. I hope this could be resolved. This give more working room. Have quite a few hills in yard, don’t know what to do……probably have to buy a Simplicity. I am South of Washington D.C. in the local Maryland/Virginia/ D.C. area. For the $665 I hope I can get 5 or 6 years out of this tranny. Does not move after 20-30 minutes of use. SNOW BLOWER: 44″ 2 STAGE S/N: M044SBH030499 M/N: MX37425, I too have been a “victim” of John Deere’s shenanigans. I am shock to read so many complaints over 6yrs.No jd representative are company take any responsibility knowing their is transmission problem. I then pulled off the bottom plate and removed the filter. i installed a plastic gallon jug on the back of the seat and ran a copper tube so it discharges right over the fins of the transmission but below the fan. Basically, you use a small “pump-type” oil can, fitted with about 12″ of neoprene tubing. You might try just changing the oil (and using a 5-50W synthetic for the refill) as some have done with varying degrees of success; the only pain here is that you still have to take the transaxle out to do this, since there is no drain plug and the fill port/plug is not accessible without dropping the tranny–and even if you could get to it, the cooling fan is just above the plug, so you have to remove the drive pulley and fan to refill–more excellent engineering by John Deere! Don’t know yet, but like the K66 Upgrade, definitely will be a lotta bang for the buck! I just saw a K46A transaxle with a fluid reservoir and drain valves advertised on a JD parts supplier web site for $650. In 2006 I spent over $2000 for an L120 John Deere. I am having very similar transmission issues with a 2008 John Deere L155 series. You will not see these prices again. love jd product but the L130 is not up to having a jd sticker they should make it right for all the loyal jd consumers, Let me preface this posting first: So he sold it to some idiot that didn’t know any better…. I have a steep hill and it just started to make a noise. Count me in. I, like so many others, bought my John Deere tractor because of the name, it was a big deal for me and it was a lot of money I was spending (this was my first riding mower (L120)). I guess I was one of the lucky ones, because I got over 400 hours before mine went. I live up here in the Northeast in New Hampshire, and we love quality stuff.. things have gotta do what its supposed to do. I have a John Deere SST16 transmission is bad and barely move ,I have about 35 others dating from early 60’s to late 70.s. I changed the battery and decided to use it while my other tractor is in shop. No change in price. I have an extremely steep hill, so steep that I have to bend down when riding so that my center of gravity is lower. I purchased the mower fight from a John Deer dealership thinking that I got a good product. I’d love to look my old oil to see what is in there, if anything…. Called JD again and asked why there was no way to regularly change the fluid I given the run around after asking for an inside schematic of the transaxle. I hope so because it sounds great, I especially like the idea of having a diff. I expect I will be looking to replace the tranny with the tuff torq k46 for a 1:1 exchange – it looks like all of the replacements you can buy from the website have tranny oil tanks on top which I presume means refillable elements. I just changed the steering gear GX20052 on my Scotts mower two weeks ago. Compounding this is the fact that I have spent quite a bit replacing parts (2 sets of spindles, front axle, PTO clutch, pulleys, idlers, etc.). After about 1 hour it would not got up the hill. Have the same problem and I even paid a John Deere dealer to install a new transmission and no one said squat about a better stronger transmission and now I am in the same boat again. i think ill find me an old Pennsylvania Panzer with the 8 3/4 ” Dana, from those old Dodge’s… (those i know are near bullet proof at 600hp plus.. worked for them.. lol. S what i ’ ve used it about two weeks ago new rims and tires set up please that else... 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